Lefka Ori (White Mountains)
Location Western Kreta (Crete)
60 kilometers in length, from west to the east and 38 from north to south occupy most of the Chania and part of Rethymnon perfectures.
The White Mountains, or Lefka Ori, or even Madares, as called by locals, deriving from the ancient word "madaros" that means deserted - barren!
How better one could describe this huge massif, the largest on the island and its highest summit of Pachnes (2.453 m).
The heart of this imposing range includes the Mountain Desert, where more than fifty peaks named Sori (piles), reminding of cones, exceed the altitude of 2.000 m. Dolines, reminding of upturned cones are formed at the foot of Sori peaks. This creepy and haunting landscape is a unique geological formation in the entire northern hemisphere.
Hiking in the White Mountains requires fitness, experience and a good sense of orientation.
Part A: the Omalos Approach
On the renowned Omalos plateau one can find the E4 trail signs that ascend to Kallergi Refuge located right over Samaria offering
stupendous views towards the world famous gorge! The refuge is great for an overnight stop before hiking into the heart of the Whites.
Early start with wind blasts and fog that did not let us enjoy the see of seas laying bellow Mellidau peak 2133. Aegean to the north and Lybean to the south!
Descending thereafter to Plakoseli plateau and then to Mitato Pirou at the altitude of 1800m we made promises to Yannis Papasifakis to spend few days in the short future helping him with his goats sheep and other works! Stay tuned, this is going to happen soon!
Mitato is the primitive stone built creamery next to the stockyards for milking the flocks in summer and produce the delicious gruyere. When sufficient quantities of cheese are produced as there is no road back, the cheese is transported by mules to Anopoli.
We then come by the starting point of Eligia Gorge and finally reached the shelter of Chouliopoulos above Katsiveli plateau, in the core of the Mountain Desert.
Another continuous ascend was there for us, including three consecutive passes over the cols of Moudaki Svourichti and Sternes, all well over the 2000 land level.
Relief came upon reaching the Rousies plateau (where from the trail to Pachnes goes off) as we knew there was only 3o easy minutes left to Mavra Gremna, where we had arranged for a truck collection. Unlikely to happen as the dirt road from Anopoli was closed due to a smowfall.
Exhausted we walked the dirt road to Ammoutsera and Agathopi where from Marinos managed to pick us up and drive us to Anopoli.
June 2019 | Omalos Xyloskalo Kallergi Melintau Plakoseli Pirou Katsiveli Rousies Ammoutera Agathopi | 29k | overnight at Kallergi
Part B: the Pachnes Summit 2453
The easiest way to conquer the highest peak of the White Mountains and the second in Crete, Pachnes at an altitude of 2453m, is to follow the dirt track of Madara that starts from Anopolis and enters the Mountain Desert of Sfakia crossing the eerie landscape at Ammoutsera and terminating at Mavra Gremna.
The ascent from Mavra Gremna to the peak Pachnes lasts about 1:30.
From Mavra Gremna we follow the trail to the plateau Roussies (altitude 2100m) where the two paths to Pachnes and Katsiveli start.
One open account we are left with, an overnight sleep next to the top -excellent spot to pitch a tent- and return to Anopolis via the Zaranokefala pass.
August 2019 | Mavra Gremna Rousies Pachnes round trip | 7k
Part C: the Askyfou Approach
Our course starts westwards from Askyfou plateau, off the main road that connects Chania to Sfakia.
We catch the ascending trail through cypresses that goes off the settlement of Ammoudari inside Askyfou plateau. The trail leads to Tavri shelter that was closed but Niato plateau came before we started the steep climb towards Koutala Seli, seli meaning col in the local dialect. Vegetation started disappearing as it was the Fanari 2170 and Kastro 2219 peaks. Well in the mountain dessert of Lefka we were walking towards the barren south slopes of Koutalas 1995. Reaching the col named after the peak we could see the Souda port night lights as well as Rethymnon city to the distant east.
This was the spot to pitch our tent on the only level piece of land we found!
Next morning sun emerged from Psiloritis, hint received to get up and pack... indeed we did. Eastbound with continuous ups and downs that made us suffer in the summer heat. It was on;y 5pm that we eventually passed circumnavigating Koutalas ridge in favour of Akrotirianos 2070 and Mikros Trocharis 2105 to Askyfiotikos Soros col. Decision granted, too early but too tired. Hiking gets tiring in the bare alpine desert... this is where we spent the night. Wise enough of a decision it was, the notorious narrow passage of Sideroporti pass was there for us!
Early rise with not much water left in our canisters we hit the trail before the sun came up. Narrow deep and badly signed before we climbed the Sideroporti rocks and the stone slides before and after.
The summits of Grias Soros 2331 appearded to the left and that of Agio Pnevma 2262 to the right. No courage to ascend Agio Pnevma with its stupendous views, as we had heard. We pursued instead ahead towards the badly needed fresh water.
The black pipe found in place, though not straight forward to locate, delivering water from the Lagkou Nero spring to Livada Mitato.
Stavros was there, taking care of his cultivations and his flock of sheep. A sip of tsichoudia made us good for the next set of ups and downs to Katsiveli plateau. Reached hungry but alive. The new built shelter was locked and the bivuac scruffy enough. Though unlocked was the door to Koumpasis Mitato. Fresh water right outside that was travelling in pipe from Svourihti slopes. We entered in the mitato to avoid mid day sun and cooked our last tortelini pack, drunk lots of fresh water, rational no more, and hit the path that will lead us to Rousies. No worries of what to expect, we had done this part before.
Three consecutive cols to get over, Modaki, Bournelos and Sternes before we reach Rousies!
No, we did not turn right to Pachnes, as maybe we should have done according to the original plan. We walked straight ahead instead to reach Mavra Gremna, Ammoutsera and, from Agathopi we managed to get a lift to Anopolis to reload our batteries at Kosta's taverna and have a great, and clean, night sleep in one of Antoni's stone built bungalows at Agios Ioannis.
Two hints before attempting to cross Lefka in the summer, start early in the morning and do carry at least 5 liters of water and energy snacks.
On this side of the mountains water will be found at Niato, Livada, Katsiveli, Rousies.
Be well prepared with navigation issues, i.e. read before you get out in the wild. The signs and the posts are not always visible especially when in fog.
Lefka Ori is an amazing place, nothing like it!
We are not done with Lefka Ori, will get back very soon!
August 2020 | Askyfou Ammoudari Koutalas col Sideroporti Livada Katsiveli Rousies Mavra Gremna Ammoutsera Agathopi | 29k | two overnights at Koutala Seli and Askyfiotikos Soros - Mikros Trocharis col
